Message Board - Bolting
| « up «Posted: 3 May 2008 | |
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SCWA | Toodjay re-boltingThe following route has been re-bolted Wounded knee 12m 22R both original bolts with homemade hangers have been replaced with: 2 x SS tru-bolts w/hangers cost $12 Top Anchors have been added above: Plaque Boulder Ode face: 2 X SS GIMB's West Face: 2 X SS GIMB's Cost:$20 Cheers for all the good work Mark:) |
Replies
Scott, 6 May 2008 - WA, Perth region
Thanks for the good work Mark.
Does anyone know why Wounded Knee is R rated? Is it due to the old homemade hangers or due to run-out or whatever?
I guess I am just wondering if it is still considered a risky option despite the new bolts.
George, 6 May 2008 - WA, Perth region
We were asking ourselves the same question. It doesn't really warrant one compared to the 2 right most climbs on that face, as they only have 1 bolt on each at about half height. But Wounded Knee is heaps harder, more insecure and stays that way right to the very top(even with 2 bolts).
But i think the last bolt on wounded knee would just keep you off the ground.....maybe:)if you pitched off at the top.I don't think the R rating was for the bolt. If they were that bad(which they weren't)an X might have summed up the potential catastrophic failure. But they were in reasonable condition, even with their homemade nature.
Ross, 7 May 2008 - WA, Perth region
I gave it the R rating when I did the '02 guide and it was for the potentially 5m fall onto a 20 year old homemade hanger. Not X as I did not think death/life threatening injury would result (flat landing), just broken leg/hip/arm or so. Now would be just 22.