Message Board - Bolting
| « up «Posted: 14 Apr 2009 | |
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B  - WA, Perth region | Statham's - Real Life AmbitionFYI: the fifth bolt on Real Life Ambition at Statham's quarry popped on the weekend. It's now a bit runout, but still looks high enough to avoid a deckout. |
Replies
ed nepia, 14 Apr 2009 - WA, Perth region
'popped' ... jeepers how?
Jeff M, 14 Apr 2009 - WA, Perth region
It was a carrot, they do that.
ed nepia, 15 Apr 2009 - WA, Perth region
yep carrots are dodgy as.. just wondering about the mechanics of the bolt failing.. did it pop as a result of a fall? did it just wiggle out with the rope and quickdraw swinging the hanger?
be interesting to find out
B, 16 Apr 2009 - WA, Perth region
Hey Ed, the bolt popped as the climber was lowering down and clipping the rope back into the quickdraw (for another person to toprope).
There is a noticeable bend in the bolt.
ed nepia, 16 Apr 2009 - WA, Perth region
thanks, glad no one was hurt
the carrot debate is pretty boring, but its worth noting the routes apparently only 7 years old ... puts a new spin on permanent anchors
SCWA, 16 Apr 2009 - WA, Perth region
Went out to Stathams today and replaced the 5th and 1st bolts on real life ambition.
I replaced the 5th for obvious reasons and did intend on replacing all of the 5 main bolts, but my elderly batteries only allowed 2 holes. out of all the bolts the first looked the worst and had slight cracks running from hole.
7 years isnt long and really showcases the short sited, cheap and lame nature of these pathetic bolts. That isnt me trying to start an argument, as i think we have heard them all.....and yes it is really boring!:-(.
It definately is a great route and does deserve decent bolts. I will replace the rest when i sort out the cactus battery situation.
cheers
George
ed nepia, 16 Apr 2009 - WA, Perth region
nice work G! it does seem a shame though that you spend your days offfixing other peoples mess's up ..
yep its a good route and it deserves good bolts and more climbers
B, 17 Apr 2009 - WA, Perth region
Thanks George! :)
Ross, 18 Apr 2009 - WA, Perth region
Well done, mate...You probably noticed that the top (6th?) bolt is glued in (by me) and should be a stonker ie no need to replace. I also put in the loweroffs. The rest of bolts are (were?) carrots by M&J....in smooth, blast-shattered, vertical rock, yes...
George, 18 Apr 2009 - WA, Perth region
Definately, the 6th and loweroffs are totally bomber...amazing what value abit of glue can add!
Richard W, 22 Apr 2009 - WA, Perth region
Well Done George! - What did you replace the bolts with? GIMB's or P's? The placing of carrots seem's to have slowed or stopped completely - This is a huge step forward for WA Climbing.
George, 3 May 2009 - WA, Perth region
Sorry, bolts were GIMBS.