CAWA

All,

Most have probably noticed that some new routes have appeared in the quarry, this is a part of my development of the quarry for people who climb below 17. The mess I left, is currently being tidied up. There is a discussion entitled “New Climbs at Mountain Quarry”, posted on 30 June, that explains issues encountered at the time of bolting so please read this before you comment on that subject.

My aim is to put up as many routes as possible in the 11-17 range for the moment, if you have a route in mind above grade 17 please feel free to suggest it to me whether through discussion when you see me or through the forum, though your assistance will be needed in setting the route.

I believe that there is a desperate need for sub 17 grade routes in the area, mainly to get people into the sport, and more importantly to get people confident enough to try the harder stuff.

I must also say thanks to Phil for the loan of the petrol drill as well as sorry for the noise it causes while in use. Thank you too, to my little team that is helping to set and bolt the routes. Finally a big thank you for the people we have meet and asked to comment on the routes before drilling starts.

The areas I am currently planning on working are:

Blackwall / Play boy area

To the left of Skywalker wall (on the dark band)

Fuzzbucky wall

Blakwall / Play boy wall area (Left to Right description).

- A route to the right of AWA bulge. Possibly replace the anchor.

- BS. Make safe and PART bolt to make mixed trad/bolt climb if possible.

- The cave overhang area, there is a potential route to the right, though this need to be investigated further. The bolts also need to be carefully placed to minimise impact to the abseil group that use the wall.

- RB. Make safe and part bolt to make a trad/bolt route. Work is under way to make the area safe as the rock has not faired to well over time. Good rock has been found and we will make it into a good little route once it has been cleaned up a bit. From our initial looks its probably best as a summer climb after a wee clean of the cracks not recommend for a beginner trad lead!

- There is potential route to the right of BS in the opposing corner, again this would be a summer climb.

To the right of Skywalker wall (No description of the wall name but along the dark band)

- DN- Repair the route due to missing a large block at the start, though the route detailed in the guide does not correspond with bolts found, this being to the RHS at the top, any assistance on this would be appreciated?

- There is the potential for 3-4 single and multi pitch routes between TRL and DN. Some will need bolts and all would need anchors for the single pitch bit.

- TRL as above.

- At the top of the route FG, there is a terrace. Not yet explored, but there could be potential for route development there. It would be good for the exposure!

Fuzzbucky wall (Yet to be abseiled or explored in detail, this is an initial idea)

- GK/FLA. Make safe the mid section were the skull and crossbones bit is.

- Any other routes that could be achieved in the 11-17 range.

Some of the routes were put up by Mike Adams, I will give him a call/email if I can find his details on how he feels about playing with his routes any further.

As for the resin system used for bolts and anchors, I am going to go with Hilti for the anchors / tricky bolts and the resin capsules for the bolts to minimise the mess.

For routes that are harder than 17 and where faffing around with a bolt plate could result in serious injury if it goes wrong. I will, unless there is a very good reason to the contrary put a full system in. That is a bolt and plate, similar to that found in Europe. Keep that in mind when asking me to do harder routes.

As for bolting a trad climb, No, unless it is a very soft rock and repeated cam/wire placements would cause excessive erosion and thus reduce the pleasure of the climb for future generations. Not that this counts on granite.

Any constructive comments are welcome and if you see me at the wall come and have a chat,

Ash and my support team