CAWA

You might like to consider publishing these standards in your next newsletter...

http://www.vicclimb.org.au/media/documents/general/VCC%20BoltPolicy.pdf

2. TYPE OF FIXED PROTECTION

2.1. Bolts must be stainless steel or titanium. Grade 304 stainless steel is recommended for inland areas and

Grade 316 stainless steel or titanium is recommended for coastal areas or other highly corrosive

environments.

2.2. Where two metal components of an anchor are in contact both components should be the same grade of

stainless steel, for example a fixed hanger and an expansion bolt.

2.3. All forms of fixed protection placed should be manufactured to meet or exceed the European standard EN 959

of 15kN in the axial direction and 25kN in the radial direction. Note: this standard is for the ultimate load for

the product. Most products state the normal ‘working load’ so check with the manufacturer how to convert

‘working load’ to ‘ultimate load’.

2.4. Consistent with point all forms of fixed protection should be installed in accordance with the manufacturer’s

instructions. Incorrect installation may lead to failure of fixed protection regardless of the strength rating of the

product.

2.5. The use of hammer-in ‘carrots’ is not recommended, as their reliability will vary depending on the skill of the

installer and the hardness of the rock. They may also be subject to corrosion and bolt ‘creep’.

2.6. Glues used should be industrial masonry glues suitable for dynamic loading and prepared and applied in

accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.

2.7. Glue in fixed protection/anchors must be checked and moderately load tested sometime after the

recommended curing time.

2.8. Glue in U-staples should not be used unless they are specifically made for rock climbing and tested to the

minimum European standard when installed according to instruction.

2.9. Self-tapping/self-drilling bolts should not be used unless they are specifically recommended for rock climbing

and meet the minimum European standard when installed according to instruction.

2.10. Pitons should not be placed as fixed protection. (see point for replacing Pitons.)

3. BELAY ANCHORS AND RAPPEL/ABSEIL STATIONS

3.1. Installing of rappel/abseil anchors should be kept to a minimum. Where possible one rappel station should

service the tops of all climbs in the immediate area that can safely access the rappel/abseil point.

3.2. Natural protection should be used for belay anchors where at least 2, preferably 3, independent bombproof

anchors can be used.

3.3. Additional belay anchors may be installed/replaced where no natural means of protection is available and

where the existing belay anchor is inadequate.

3.4. Rappel/abseil stations should be installed where a tree is used for the anchor or where other features used

may be unsafe (e.g. old fixed sling or unsafe natural “bollard”).

3.5. Each rappel/abseil station should have two separate anchors installed at least 200mm apart. The

rappel/abseil rope should feed through each of the two anchors independently unless the anchor has been

specifically manufactured as a rappel/abseil anchor and designed with one point of contact (i.e. it is not

acceptable to feed the rope through a single non-rated D-shackle or similar product).

3.6. Rappel/abseil station components though which the rope is threaded should be replaceable.

3.7. Products used for rappel/abseil stations should be tested and rated to at least meet UIAA standard 25kN.

Home made brackets, and non-rated components such as D-shackles, maillons rapide, chain links etc. should

not be used.

4. ENVIRONMENTAL CONSIDERATIONS

4.1. Fixed protection/anchors should not be visually intrusive particularly where the climb is located next to popular

walking tracks. For climbs less than vertical hangerless machine bolts are recommended to reduce visual

impact. Rock coloured stainless steel should be used.

4.2. While all effort should be made to minimise the visual impact of fixed protection this should not compromise

the ability of a climber to see the protection. Fixed protection should be placed on clear rock within the line of

climbing.

4.3. Rappel/abseil stations should be installed where descending by foot is likely to cause erosion problems.

4.4. Rappel/abseil stations should be installed where climbers lower off trees.

4.5. The placement of any fixed protection/anchors is banned within a Government defined wilderness area or

reference area.

4.6. When drilling holes every effort should be made to minimise the impact on other visitors to the area. Dust is to

be brushed away from the rock and drilling should be done at a time that is not likely to disturb other people.

4.7. Fixed protection/anchors should not be placed within any area of importance to Aboriginal communities. If in

doubt, the VCC Access Officer should be able to find out if there are any potential problems.

5. REPLACING BOLTS, BOLT REMOVAL AND RETRO-BOLTING

5.1. Unsafe fixed protection should be reported to a representative of the local climbing group.

5.2. Unsafe fixed protection should, where practicable, be replaced by the local climbing community, the first

ascentionist or other experienced and interested climber.

5.3. Carrot bolts requiring the placing of a bolt-plate should only be replaced with a glue in hangerless machine

bolt, except in situations where a hangerless bolt may be unsafe such as on an overhang or at a tenuous clip

with a dangerous fall.

5.4. Fixed hangers or ringbolts should only be replaced by fixed hangers or ringbolts.

5.5. When a piton is intentionally removed it should be replaced with a fixed hanger or ringbolt.

5.6. If a piton is unintentionally removed then it should not be replaced if good natural protection is available.

Where good natural protection is not available a fixed hanger or ringbolt should replace the piton. Old pitons

should not be reused once they fall out.

5.7. Piton scars should not be filled. Often natural protection can be placed in the scars so that the rock isn’t

damaged any further.

5.8. Where possible old fixed protection should be extracted from the rock. If appropriate, old 10mm holes should

be re-drilled to 12mm and the new bolt placed in the same position. Note: in soft rocks extracting fixed

protection may leave unsightly damage in the form of a crater.

5.9. Where old fixed protection cannot be removed the old protection should be cut off flush with the rock or

(preferably) sheared off below the rock surface and the hole then plugged. Old bolts must not be left protruding

from the rock surface.

5.10. When a fixed wire/sling/rope/cord is an essential point of protection then it should be removed and replaced

with fixed hanger/ringbolt/rappel/abseil anchors.

5.11. Old bolt holes not re-used should be filled in with glue/resin/putty of a similar colour to the rock. Note: small or

crushed stones of the same rock type mixed with the glue can improve the colour match and make excellent

plugs.

5.12. Where there has been a change in bolt type, number or placement then the route description should be

re-written by the person placing the bolts and published as a modified route (same as for new route

descriptions).

2.2. Where two metal components of an anchor are in contact both components should be the same grade of

stainless steel, for example a fixed hanger and an expansion bolt.

2.3. All forms of fixed protection placed should be manufactured to meet or exceed the European standard EN 959

of 15kN in the axial direction and 25kN in the radial direction. Note: this standard is for the ultimate load for

the product. Most products state the normal ‘working load’ so check with the manufacturer how to convert

‘working load’ to ‘ultimate load’.

2.4. Consistent with point all forms of fixed protection should be installed in accordance with the manufacturer’s

instructions. Incorrect installation may lead to failure of fixed protection regardless of the strength rating of the

product.

2.5. The use of hammer-in ‘carrots’ is not recommended, as their reliability will vary depending on the skill of the

installer and the hardness of the rock. They may also be subject to corrosion and bolt ‘creep’.

2.6. Glues used should be industrial masonry glues suitable for dynamic loading and prepared and applied in

accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.

2.7. Glue in fixed protection/anchors must be checked and moderately load tested sometime after the

recommended curing time.

2.8. Glue in U-staples should not be used unless they are specifically made for rock climbing and tested to the

minimum European standard when installed according to instruction.

2.9. Self-tapping/self-drilling bolts should not be used unless they are specifically recommended for rock climbing

and meet the minimum European standard when installed according to instruction.

2.10. Pitons should not be placed as fixed protection. (see point for replacing Pitons.)