Message Board - Bolting

« up «Posted: 30 May 2006
George
My location - WA, Southern region

WA Bolting fund

The subject of bolting and re-bolting has been throuwn around and debated for many years now. Some work has been done, but on the whole there is still plenty more to be done!.

There are plenty of opinions out there as to the how, where and what with. But once a process that "we" see as being in the best interest of the climbing community is agreed upon, the rest is positive support and hard work(sure, and a few other things!)

Re-bolting initiatives are actively re-placing manky fixed protection throughout the east coast and around the world. With the main focus not being about promoting bolting, but in making climbing safer (relatively) and encouraging climbers to contribute more to their beloved sport.

Most climbers i have talked to have expressed their willingness to contribute to such a fund, wether its through time and effort, money, bolts, equipment, fundraising etc.

The workload faced in Western Australia is quite significantly less than that of the eastern, which means that we don't really have any excuses(hellish workload and lack of funds. might be one!).

Safer Cliffs Australia receives all its funding from local climbers, a select few outdoor stores and ultimately out of the pocket of those who are willing to do the work. They have rebolted close to 150 routes in victoria alone and the majority of this work has been done by 2-3 people.

I for one am willing to spent time out there, but without contributions from the greater climbing community I'm sure this will again become something that people only talk about!.

Some may ask, Why would you go to the trouble of re-bolting a climb thats omebody else put up?. My motivation come from the fact that i have on numerous occasions walked up to a route or even read about a one that has the description "Great route, but needs re-bolting"!.

So where to from here? as I see it and i definately could be wrong!!

1. people need to decide wether they want to contribute to such a fund?

2. How people can contribute in their own way? time, money, bolts, equipmente etc.Delivered to the appropriate people (people doing the re-bolting) by cash, delivered, direct deposit??

3. Alternative means of raising funds? Collection boxes in the Gyms and outdoor stores, raffles, slide night collections, donations from outdoor stores?.

4. Where do the funds/equipment end up?

People could nominate a climb and donate the money/bolts.

this contribution could then be creditted on a re-bolting database (if the person approves)

General discussion through the forum as to which climbs need the work?

5. Issues relating to this Initiative?

Environmental- What bolts to be used where?. to Camoflage bolts or not?

Liabilty- As with Safer cliffs, the contribution can be totally anonymous.

read the disclaimer "CLIMBERS DONT SUE!!"

Ethics- Making sure all understand the concepts of re-bolting and retro-bolting.

6. Have a database of re-equipped climbs?. Through the Safer Cliffs network?. Safer cliffs Western Australia? apparently it is possible!

Well this is all food for thought(hence the post)and i hope you can find you own ways of contributing. i also really encourage you to contribute positive ideas (it dosn't matter how long you have been climbing ) and see that this is the time to give back. For those of you that will only see the negative, I hope you enjoy clipping "that new bolt" the next time you venture out.

Well that is definately my 2 cents worth and i hope it strikes a cord with someone out there. If anybody wants to contact me my email is gdfirth@hotmail.com

Thanks for listening.

p.s if anybody has contacts in any of the gyms/stores could you please push the message and hopefully we can get some collection boxes happening!.

please, can this section of the forum remain only for the use of re-bolting discussion.

Reply

Replies


George, 30 May 2006 - WA, Southern region

Sorry, that heading should read

WA Re-bolting fund


Emil, 30 May 2006 - WA, Perth region

Im in!

There are plenty of routes (esp down south) that i have never done because of the shithouse bolts. Im thinking Toy Shopping at Bobs, Banan.... at Wallcliffe and Masked Boshman at Willeys as good examples. How many times have you cursed Shane R's name for his tightarse single bolt loweroffs?

Bolts dont last forever folks and here is someone willing to do the work for a little bit of cash to cover expenses. This is a good thing....


Roo, 31 May 2006 - WA, Perth region

Good idea,

I think the collection tins at the gyms (and someone pointing it out to climbers there) is a good idea, As is getting "sponsorship" from local shops.

So I'm keen to help in any way, I have a 24volt hammer drill but have kept it at home, Would prefer someone with a bit of experience to show me how it should be done first.. and would obviously follow any bolting guidelines.

Cheers


Kris, 31 May 2006 - Australia, South Australia

Sounds great. Top idea Roo to get sponsorship......GOOD LUCK! I'm keen to add to a slush fund, but not keen on donating to carrots though.

Think we have to make sure we RE-BOLT and not RETRO-BOLT, as this could piss lots of people off.


Nick, 31 May 2006 - WA, Perth region

this should be done for sure.

I'm keen to help out in whatever way.


George, 31 May 2006 - WA, Southern region

Fantastic, great to hear some positive feedback.

What is needed is for people to start nominating climbs that they think need re-bolting. Then for concensus to be gained on what equipment is needed i.e what type of bolts( Expansions, glu-in P's/machine heads etc)and how many $$. Im sure there are climbs in perth that need fixing up?, but it's up to everybody to start the ball rolling and NOMINATE!.

FUNDS/EQUIPMENT- I have emailed both the gyms, but am yet to receive a reply (does anybody have their personal emails/ or know them in person?) Once we have a green light, we can get some tins put in and start encouraging people to donate to this positive climbing initiative. I am hoping to get some hardware from one of the gear stores (Mainpeak), but have had no replys from MD's, Paddys, snowgum, are there anymore??.

HELP... It is hard for me to contact these people one on one as im not in perth all that often. If anybody is willing to try and encourage the store to chip-in and donate gear/instal tins:) then let me know and i will possibly send you some encouragement info(if you are stuck at all for ideas!). Im not sure when the next Gym crash is/or event?, but if nobody objects, i think this would be a perfect time to collect some kind donations.

But People are going to want to know where their hard earnt biccys are going and to what climbs?? So cast your mind back to when you last had an experience with a 20yr+ rusted timebomb!!and include it in the file!

As i said if you can think of any way in which you can personally contribute please contact me. Thank again


Rod, 1 Jun 2006 - Europe

I'll give you A$1,000 for expansion bolt/hangar comboes, double ring belays (so that people can lower off/top rope) and the necessary glue. Re-bolted routes to be CAWA committee approved, its to be a CAWA administered fund for rebolting only and funds retained in a separate bank account, work to be voluntary or paid for outside the fund. No contribution otherwise.

To be clear, carrots/glued machine bolts without hangars are not on my agenda for rebolting. As far as I'm concerned such routes either deserve to be retrobolted or pulled entirely. I know I've said the contrary but that's simply because I'm equipped to deal with them, a great many aren't. The protected sport climbing world has moved on, I'll never support their replacement with same.


Kris, 1 Jun 2006 - WA, Perth region

George,

Sorry to break it to you but Snowgum is RIP! In WA anyway.


Dave, 1 Jun 2006 - WA, Perth region

As has been mentioned... "for concensus to be gained on what equipment is needed i.e what type of bolts( Expansions, glu-in P's/machine heads etc)and how many $$" but what has not been discussed is the depth and breadth of experience of the people placing the bolts clearly a bolt will only be secure as the abilities of the person placing it. It is my belief that if CAWA is going to be involved in establishing guidelines and standards for bolting then the boltees experience should be a part of those guidelines.


kim, 1 Jun 2006 - WA, Perth region

re 500 is the bomb as far as glue is concerned.

This glue as massive braking stain, well over a ton of outward pressure.

As for bolt preferance,anything thats not bashed in for me.Other than that its just going to be a debate of personal preferance.


George, 1 Jun 2006 - WA, Southern region

Hi Dave,

I can sense by the subtle nature of your post that you might be refering to "ME"!. I will be the first to admit that i have not placed all that many bolts and am far from being an expert on the subject.

Having not heard from anybody on the committee in regards to this matter, i am can not say what stance they will want to take?. But taving talked with Neil Monteith from Safer Cliffs on the matter, i got the impression that no Assosiations (i.eVCC) really wanted to be apart of governing any re-bolting effort. This seemed due to liabilty issues anyway and not from any lack of concern and interest in the issue!. But they have been really helpful in unofficially raising funds(from Members in a social sense).

So really my efforts so far are in the interest of getting those with bolting experience (quite small) to maybe mentor or direct those with lesser experience (me). I have already spoken to some climbers in regards to the issue, but as dave has pointed out, their needs to be more interest shown from those with the appropriate experience.As i have already said, we need to start by getting interest, work out how it will be done, then GET THE JOB DONE!.

I see your point Dave, but this topic has gone round and round over the year and after looking at some of the bolts out there, i am sure in alot of cases a new well placed bolt will be a welcome change.

I for one a am well aware of the seriousness of getting it right, but i would also like to see it become more than just hot air on a forum. I will take it that from your post you are more than happy to help out in anyway possible?.

Still havn't got your email address!


Di Arnott, 1 Jun 2006 - WA, Perth region

Hmm, sounds like we need to get the interested parties together for a MEETING!! I know it sounds like a bunch of wank but we'll never get anything accomplished yapping back and forth on the discussion board.

I'm happy to organise it (I can even get us a meeting room at UWA for free)- what does everyone think?


Rod, 2 Jun 2006 - Europe

Good idea if you can get right people to attend: existing bolters, existing FA climbers, access owners, finally the bolting ethics setters and assorted extras. Absent them George is doomed to failure at the hands of the sceptics.


Ross, 3 Jun 2006 - WA, Perth region

I'm in the middle east temporarily but have bolted a few climbs around WA in the past & so have some comments. There is a comment in the string that glue-in-hexes should not be accepted for rebolting. I have been kind of main exponent of this type of bolting in natural environs (not in quarries where I have used P-bolts or hangers as this is std. for clipups, also not for overhangs where removable hangers bend). I don't really understand why all bolts need to have fixed hangers (or rings) - glued hexs are safe, strong, unobtrusive, and preserve the Aus tradition of minimum impact bolting. It also allows for closer spacing of bolts, as closely spaced (even camouflaged with paint hexes) are low impact, whereas closely spaced Pbolts can be hard on the eye. Land managers do not object to bolts which they cannot see. All that hangers add is making the route easier (often by 1 grade) by making the clip less strenuous. Except there are a few places (Gibraltar Rock) where hangers are useful as it is very difficult to actually SEE the hex bolt (lost amongst large crystals and due to the wandering nature of the climbs).

So please do not dismiss any bolting method outright as things are not that black/white and horses for courses. Except perhaps for carrots where pullout strength is just too weak on anything but granite slabs.

Bolting fund - why not have CAWA set this up? I mean CAWA is there to promote climbing, so if this is what climbers want then why not? In the past CAWA has paid for plenty of bolts that are out there now. If they are installed well they will not fail, so that's that for liability concerns.


Safer Cliffs WA, 4 Jun 2006 - WA, Southern region

Since neils post 2003- re: excessive bolting @ Willyabrup none of the bolts have been removed or even talked about(in an official sense). On numerous occasions I have been out there and everytime i see people using those 2 glued in (if you could call it that) hex heads, instead of using the abundance of natural protection that is spread across that clifftop (complete laziness). Those bolts have been removed, along with another 4 (glued-in hex's)which were placed in front of more bomber naural protection.

The bolt on the small block that is on the left as you look down the cliff(above "hope"), came out with very little encouragement (the surposed glue seemed to be some sort of car filler)and not to mention the fact that 1 person could wobbly the block back and forth!!. These bolts have worried me for too long now and the ease at which they came out seems even more worrying!!. The number one reason these needed to come out was. 1. They were totally unethical and sent a slack message out there to people who hadn't learnt the basics of setting up a top-rope anchor system (off big obvious anchors) and 2. because the person who placed them not only placed them in bad positions(wobbly block), but also with inadequate equipment(car bog). So after nearly 4 yrs of debate these eyesores are no more.

All holes have been patched with epoxy putty, mixed with dirt.

Cost- $10 epoxy filler


Safer Cliffs WA, 4 Jun 2006 - WA, Southern region

P.S these bolts were not CALM tagged bolts (rings)- thats a whole different(but similar)kettle of fish!!


MArk, 6 Jun 2006 - WA, Perth region

A thankless task removing shit bolts. So thought I would just say thanks for your efforts.


Peter C, 6 Jun 2006 - WA, Perth region

Yep count me in for any help, I have some experience of placing ring bolts and 'U' bolts, also re-bolting of sport climbing areas when I lived in the UK. We also had the same issue of bolt funds.


Jen, 6 Jun 2006 - WA, Perth region

This sounds like a great initiative, how do i donate???


George, 6 Jun 2006 - WA, Southern region

Sounds good guy's, just need to get the appropriate people together and workout the how, what, where and when.


Jen, 7 Jun 2006 - WA, Perth region

Is this really all the climbers that have something to say?, geez there mustn't be many dodgy bolts out there!!Iwould have thought more people would have been voicing their support or opinions anyway!!


DAVE, 7 Jun 2006 - WA, Perth region

Hi George

Sorry if you thought my posting was directed at yourself but that simply is not the case. i was only trying to draw attention to the fact that the discussion so far had been about collecting appropriate data on all the factors that will impact upon the quality of bolt placements. i just wanted to throw my two cents worth in re a relavent factor that appeared to be being overlooked.


Rod, 7 Jun 2006 - Europe

ross, valid argument, point taken...if the day ever comes i'll hand you those glory non-fixed hanger leads (and NO penalty slack). off topic - i found a good french speaking contact to obtain details on oman.


George, 7 Jun 2006 - WA, Southern region

No worries Dave, yours was a good point...stillhavn't got your email..drop me a line on gdfirth@hotmail.com

Well Jen!, it could be a little disappointing if more people don't get involved.maybe it's because of all this fantastic unseasonal june weather we've been having..everybodys out climbing.


George, 9 Jun 2006 - WA, Southern region

I think Di's idea of organising a meeting is a fantastic idea, just let me know and i'll be there....anyone...

thanks Di, thats a kind invitation


Di, 9 Jun 2006 - WA, Perth region

Hi George-

Send me an email and we'll figure out when you're going to be up in Perth, then we'll go from there. Anyone else interested in sitting down together to discuss our plan let me know too- darnottatfnas.uwa.edu.au


Di, 9 Jun 2006 - WA, Perth region

Hi all-

I'm looking at Wednesday 14th June 7pm (yes next week) to get everyone together- how does that suit- I've got a meeting room at UWA organised.

Anyone interested should attend, but especially someone from CAWA with background in bolting, people such as George, Roo, Kris, Rod, Kim, Jay, anyone else interested.

What we need to sort out (I'm sure more will come up):

How we collect $$ to pay for this;

Who is going to do the work, and on which climbs;

What kind of bolts/glue to use;

Where to start!

Please let me know if you can make it on Wednesday- darnott(at)fnas.uwa.edu.au. If this looks like it's going to be a bad time then we will reschedule!!


Toc, 9 Jun 2006 - WA, Perth region

Hi Di,

Minor problem of a major maths exam next day, but I will try and make it, but as myself, not CAWA president. Bolts and rebolting definitely have been discussed by the committee but most of the committee's energy has gone into the "whether we were going to be allowed to continue to climb at all" issue of late. Nor has anything else CAWA is involved in gone away.

As for CAWA not being interested, some of the people involving themselves in this are not CAWA members. Some are. If all were, then hey there'd be a whole bunch of CAWA members involved. Frankly, I'm happy to see any involvement by any climbers, members or not, in any issue.

Can I point out, this discussion took place on the CAWA website but nobody notices air, until there is none left and CAWA is even less noticeable than air until it's needed. If the CAWA website is being used for the good of climbing, well that's exactly what it's for. It is just a little bit galling to have it suggested we're not doing anything when we have willingly provided the forum for it to be said. As for official involvement, I wouldn't expect a climbing association anywhere in Australia, to be publicly involved in rebolting or bolting exactly because of the liability fears and at $40.00 per year a membership, there's not a lot of "let's rebolt everything around" money about. This is the reason for the existence of "bolting fairies". Systems that work, just plain do. And if systems that work have to be unofficial, so be it. Bad things do occasionally happen and some of the people who unfortunately get damaged will look around for some body to nail. Bolting fairies are too ephemeral to be nailed, that's why we like them. My two cents worth anyway.

Cheers.


George, 9 Jun 2006 - WA, Southern region

Hi di, definately won't be coming up to perth until after exams 20th june, but a date after that would be better for me. I will also be dropping of collection tins to the stores that have shown positive support, so a meeting before i do that would be great.

cheers G


Kris, 12 Jun 2006 - WA, Perth region

Di

Love to come but not available on the day you suggest. Later in the month could be a go.


Di, 12 Jun 2006 - WA, Perth region

Hi all-

It looks like this Wednesday is not going to work to sit down and hash out the rebolting initiative- so how is the first week in July for everyone who is interested?

darnott(at)fnas.uwa.edu.au

Thanks!


micko, 12 Jun 2006 - WA, Southern region

i like machine bolts (am i showing my age here?) even thou it scares the shit out me , its like placing gear. (life wasnt meant to be easy) im not going to jump on me high horse and say whatever was in the rock should be replaced with new gear as that could include pitons , slings and other fixed gear. but i suppose thats yet another kettle of fish. Good on ya George for getting the debate going (again) i sure it will lead to a safer climbing enviroment, whatever that means - Fear is Fun. dodgy bolts must go.


George, 18 Jun 2006 - WA, Southern region

Does anybody know the email/contacts for Shane Richardson??

Hello...is there anybody out there???, i can't believe there are only 10 or so climbers out there that have something to contribute or even at the very least something to say!!


Rod, 20 Jun 2006 - Europe

George you forgot the first rule of rebolting - 10 people comment before the work starts, the other 10,000 prefer to moan about the work after its done.


George, 20 Jun 2006 - WA, Southern region

True Rod!

At least they can't say they did have the chance!


John Knight, 20 Jun 2006 - WA, Perth region

Probably because talking about bolting is like accountancy or tax, no one really wants to get stuck in but they have to in the end (usually at the last minute).


George, 20 Jun 2006 - WA, Southern region

Clearly John!

but I managed to bring you out of the woodwork :)

Any input??

Routes in Perth that have manky bolts?there has to be more than one?


John Knight, 21 Jun 2006 - WA, Perth region

Hehe, I know what it's like to be passionate about something only to have the rest of the board have about as much enthusiasm as a three-toad sloth with chronic fatigue syndrome! ;)

I hold issue with some slabby climbs where it's one bolt on a long face that accounts for no real protection, particularly a climb at the front of Toodyay boulders. Perhaps a wiki page (less to manage) where you can report yucky bolts. And I know if there were a paypal account or something of similar ilk where i could give fifty bucks to a bolting fund, I would (but I'm not prepared to argue over those points).

It's just that after 4 years of climbing, and almost as many on this board, bolting arguments just give me a headache, so I prefer to put effort in other places. However, I fully respect and support people who are willing to put in the hard yards with this subject, so maximum respect from me companeiro. :)


Ben, 21 Jun 2006 - WA, Perth region

Where do I sign up? I think the rebolting is a great idea. I work not far from the adventure stores in Perth so if you want a hand asking round for some help or dealing with the donation tins, I don't mind. But I doubt if you would get any sort of sponsorship because of the whole liability thing.

I have no experience when it comes to bolting but I'm always happy to help if needed. Especially if it means not having to work around the house on the weekends!


kim, 21 Jun 2006 - WA, Perth region

George

One of the most important points is the pemission of the first

ascentionist.

Secondly is this a rebolt,bolt for bolt or are people looking to bolt runout routes with extra protection.

I dont believe any exrta bolts should be added ever unless the first ascentionist gives permission.


George, 21 Jun 2006 - WA, Southern region

Cheers John, please explain what a wiki page is (im obviously not up with the lingo). If its bad!, report it in the perth section of the re-bolting forum.In the process of working out how funds can be donated. The tins are ready to go and i will hopefully be dropping them of when im up in Perth (6th/7th july for a meeting with whoevers interested in contributing), but as for an account, i'll keep you posted.

Ben, great to hear your keen to contribute, haven't got the tins out there yet!, but im sure it will be a real benefit (especially for me, as i live in margies)if someone is able to keep track of any fund generated through them. Hopeing to have a meeting on the 6th/7th of July, so it would be good to see you there. being passionate about climbing is the only pre-requisite :)cheers


George, 21 Jun 2006 - WA, Southern region

Kim

As i have already mentioned this a RE-BOLTING fund and I am well aware of ethic behind this!.

I have also made it clear that there will be absolutely no retro-bolting, unless the first ascentionist has given their permission and even then it should be posted on this forum to see what others feel!:)

The opinions of others are theirs only and do not represent me and what im trying initiative.

So please understand that i want this to be done right:)


Safer Cliffs WA, 27 Jun 2006 - WA, Southern region

DONATIONS NEEDED:

*FUNDS- Cash- bring it along to the meeting on the 6th or give it to someone who is :)- we will compile a list of who the funds came from and where they were spent. Also drop some cash in the donation tins that will be installed in a gear store near you!:)

* Static Rope- we are in urgent need of some static rope that can be used when bolting. old ropes are fine (within reason!), as long as they are in ok condition and are off a decent length (10m+)- just so we don't trash our own climbing ropes!

Bolts- Any bolts that you are willing to donate will be gratciously received(except for carrots :)

Glue- We will be using the Hilti HY 150- any spare?, then drop it in

Nozzles- We will be needing plenty- to fit HY150

Drill bits- Mainly 12mm SDS bits, at least 100mm in length. 10mm bits will be useful as well:)

Any other useful equipment-ie. we need a harness or two, that can be used solely for re-bolting(one that is going to get glue all over it!. Which will be kept in the pool of equipment that can be used by others with the appropriate experience. Blow tubes, pipe brush etc.

WE NEED YOUR HELP TO GET THIS STARTED!


Pat T, 27 Jun 2006 - WA, Perth region

Good effort George,

Its brilliant to see someone making the effort and taking time from paid work to volunteer and undertake such a mammoth job. As long as there is no retrobolting etc etc, which you have expressed afew times in this post that there wont be, then It is a fantastic effort, that will ensure safe climbing for all in the future.

Pat


elliott, 27 Jun 2006 - WA, Perth region

i've have 2 60m static ropes to give away and plenty of steal biners, who wants them?


anon, 27 Jun 2006 - WA, Perth region

Are the 2 ropes for WA bolting fund people. or people generally bolting new routes? If it is the latter would be keen to take 1. jeppetto80@hotmail.com


Peter, 27 Jun 2006 - Australia, Victoria

Oh sure Mr Anon I'll send you a new rope to your email address - NOT! Say arent you the guy who i get all those emails from after my bank account details? Ropes, money, sheesh what will you be after next?


elliott, 27 Jun 2006 - WA, Perth region

i'll donate the ropes and steelies to the bolting fund!


George, 27 Jun 2006 - WA, Southern region

Elliot and Peter that is a fantastic offer and that equipment could definately be put to good use!. As i have said before the equipment will be available for those with the right experience and for the purpose of re-bolting only. I haven't spent this much time gathering interest, support and approval, for people like anon(i hate anonymous posters :()to get some free gear. So if you have some equipment (thankyou peter and elliot) then you can see me at the meeting or arrange for me to meet up with you. Email-gdfirth@hotmail.com, please keep the donations coming!:)


Safer Cliffs WA, 27 Jun 2006 - WA, Southern region

Safer Cliffs Western Australia

This the new contact email for Safer Cliffs WA

westernaustralia@safercliffs.org

Re-bolted routes will be compiled on a database page, that will be hosted through Chockstone.

This will hopefully be up and running soon and then the hard work begins!

Please we need your donations!for info contact us on the above address:)


George, 28 Jun 2006 - WA, Southern region

Sorry- posted in Margaret River section by mistake...:)

Don't want to start a heated debate, but someone has to initiate some talk.

What are peoples views on replacing expansions w/hangers or carrots/glued machines w/ fixed hangers with camoflaged rings?.

The area that i have in mind is Willyabrup, where the above combos have signs of corrosion (agreed, some more than others), so to replace with the same or instal, stainless camoflaged rings that will last longer in the seacliff environment?.

In my opinion if there is already a hanger, it is appropriate to replace with a ringbolt. I could be wrong, but it seems that if you are going to go to the trouble of replacing a bolt, then it should be replaced with the best quality equipment available. But in the same breath, i also believe that it is important to maintain the character of the route(with-in reason).

Some may say that the visual impact is the main reason for not wanting rings!. A properly camoflaged and recessed ringbolt is no more obtrusive than a rusted fixed hanger and is definately a better choice in the sea environment (my opinion only :). I have a meeting with CALM regarding this issue on friday and would value any suggestions and opinions.

Again i would like to stress that this is NOT ABOUT RETROBOLTING(thats the last time i will say this). But i recently read a quote from Mike Law saying that. Which i believe is food for thought

Don't "cannonize" the old styles of bolting,most of the style comes from a mix of laziness, poverty, and ignorance.

I believe this quote is not aimed towards RETROBOLTING, but at having a long hard look at what equipment has been used and as a "community" deciding the way forward!.


Kris, 28 Jun 2006 - WA, Southern region

George

I reckon piss off all carrots and put up camo rings or hangers, but everyone probably knows my opinion. Realistically the FA needs to approve and that is where this whole battle will be very interesting


Roo, 30 Jun 2006 - WA, Perth region

Hey George,

Sounds reasonable to me. I suppose some will say it makes the climb easier cos you dont have to fish around in your chalk bag for a plate etc. (for carrots/hex heads).

Cheers


George, 30 Jun 2006 - WA, Southern region

The replacement i was talking about was fixed hangers for rings, in a sea environment!(period), where there are carrots, they will be replaced with GIMB, so there will be no character loss and definately no retro-bolting!. The only time this might come into play is when a carrot/GIMB has been placed in a bad position or on unappropriate ground (overhangs, hard to clip w/ serious ground fall potetial), even after FA permission and community support, it still may be deemed unneccessary.

So lets make sure we are on the same wave length!:).


scaredy cat, 30 Jun 2006 - WA, Perth region

This might be a bit to the right of the subject.

But what about situations where the 1st and 2nd bolts are placed such that not making the 2nd clip will probably result in a ground fall? A number of these situations don't get mentioned in guides when really they are just as dangerous as any R graded climb. It seems that it comes about from either lack of resources (no bolts left, etc) or lack of consideration for safety. Or maybe the guise "we just wanted to make it scarier" is the reason.

Anyway, should these situations get considered or perhaps just given the R grade? I guess it once again comes back the whole FA permission versus safety thing. I'm not saying go retrobolt to make it safe. That would wipe out the need for R's and X's and ruin the original intention of the FA. Just that maybe when putting up a new climb the bolter takes this into account and any existing climbs with this kind of start should be given recognition as a potentially dangerous climb.


Safer Cliffs WA, 2 Jul 2006 - WA, Southern region

SCWA would like to thank Elliot for his donation of 2 60m static ropes and 7 steal carabiners, this generous contribution is much appreciated and will definately be put to good use!.

Please!, keep the donations coming.

We really need people to start informing us of potential re-bolting candidates. I can't help getting the feeling that people are sick of debating bolting and can't be bothered. So am I and thats why i trying to do something about it!. PLease speak up,as this has become a reality and your input is valued.:)


John Knight, 3 Jul 2006 - WA, Perth region

Sorry, haven't followed this thread for a week or two. A wikipage is a bit like forums like these, but generally with less formalities, and usually a bit more free-reign. The reason I was thinking wiki would be that would require much less support than a forum such as this, and would be used just for quick notes on bad bolts.


George, 11 Jul 2006 - WA, Southern region

HI all,

Firstly I would like to thank all those who came along to the re-bolting meeting and gave their time to discuss this worthwhile initiative.

Special thanks to Di for rounding people up and organising the meeting room. :)

Collection tins have now been installed in:

Mainpeak(perth city)

Mountain Designs(perth city)

Paddy Pallin(perth city)

So please drop some cash in the tins and help support this beast!. PLenty of you have showed your interest in helping out!, well here is your chance.

We have a specific bank account setup for donation and all withdrawalls will be recorded. If that is the easiest way for you to donate then contact us on: westernaustralia@safercliffs.org

and we can give you the account details!.

If giving it in person is easiest, then let us know and we can organise to meet with you i.e at the gym, out at the crag or where ever.

So now we have put in place a way of donating and have some really keen volunteers to do the work, it is time for all of you that climb to help out.

Encourage people that don't read these forums that this is a worthwhile thing and that we need their help.

I have started to compile a database of potential routes to be re-equipped, but there really hasn't been much joy in the Perth area.

cheers

George


John Knight, 11 Jul 2006 - WA, Perth region

Any chance of a tin at the hangout? i'm there all the time.


Di, 12 Jul 2006 - WA, Perth region

Hi John-

I'm heading to Hangout tonight with a tin- so it will be there very soon assuming the owner/manager are happy for us to have it there.

Hopefully see you there sometime soon!


Roo, 18 Jul 2006 - WA, Perth region

Howdy,

I've got a few old harnesses that you can have, they are old and where going in the bin but should be OK for hanging on a rope with. (I'd happily use it for that)

Cheers


Ross, 18 Jul 2006 - Asia

Ciao SFWA, here is a nomination for climb that needs rebolting: "Short Circuit" in Statham's. The original gear (pitons and carrots) mostly fell out long ago and this is a great pumpy fun thing which many people toprope for warmup. Someone should do the alt. direct finish, instead of stepping R into groove near top. No carrots or expansion please, this rock is blast shattered and needs long glued in bolts.

Also: all the pitons at Churchman's should be replaced with something that does not break or fall out when rusted. I see no need for any FA permissions here, as it is just replacement.


SCWA, 21 Jul 2006 - WA, Southern region

Cheers Roo,

We have emailed you from the westernaustralia@safercliffs.org address.

Thanks for the support:)


SCWA, 16 Sep 2006 - WA, Southern region

Hi Everyone,

Just a quick note on more donations that we have received:

Mainpeak Donation:

1 x 60m Black Marlow static

2 x 10m Bluewater static strops

30m of tube tape

2 x Rope protectors

1 x cheque for $250

We would like to send out a big thankyou to John Mustard and Richard Lushey for this very generous contribution and also thsnk them for their ongoing support of WA climbing.

The tins have a little bit of cash in them, so please remember this is a good cause and in the future these fund can get directed too a crag near you.

Cheers

SCWA Crew


SCWA, 22 Sep 2006 - WA, Southern region

The address for the SCWA re-bolted routes database is:

www.chockstone.org/Rebolting/RoutesWA.asp

Cheers :)


SCWA, 14 Jan 2007 - WA, Southern region

Hi all!

After a busy couple of months, we are back in the saddle and hoping to get some more work done.

We emptied the donation tins the other day to discover a grand total of $44.65, which is a little dissapointing to say the least!!. Considering we received a $1000 donation from a group of people that aren't even living in the country permanently!.

To all of you that have donated already, in either money or time we thank you. To those of you that haven't donated and have been appreciating the work that has happened so far, IT'S TIME TO COUGH UP!!!. The work will not continue without your support and that would be a shame.

We have already spent plenty of our own cash on this beast, with a drill costing $1000 alone. So when you spend that $5 on a big mac meal deal and then get the inevitable heart burn that follows, think about how easy it would be to put a fiva in the tins(with a much more forfilling after taste:).

PLease we need your help to keep the work happening

Cheers

SCWA crew


Peter T, 15 Jan 2007 - WA, Perth region

Great work you guys are doing, and I've promised myself I'll contribute as soon as I see a collection tin. Maybe I'm blind - where are they?


SCWA, 15 Jan 2007 - WA, Southern region

There are tins located in the following places:

Mainpeak perth

Mountain Design perth

The hangout

Paddy pallin did have one, but we have removed it as they aren't really keen to support the fund.

We would still like to get tins in:

Urban Ascent

The Rockface

Mainpeak Cottesloe & Osborne Park

Mountain designs- well more stores!


SCWA, 10 Feb 2007 - WA, Southern region

a collection tin has been placed in Urban Ascent, so please drop some cash to keep the work happening.


SCWA, 20 Feb 2007 - WA, Southern region

Donations:

SCWA has received a generous donation of $100 from Scott Kerenyi. Thanks heaps Scott, it's great too see somebody putting their money where their mouths is!. Glad you were able to enjoy some newly re-bolted classics.


SCWA, 24 Mar 2007 - WA, Southern region

Donations:

A very Generous donation of $200 has been made by Jon Gregg. Thanks heaps Jon, for your ongoing contributions to WA climbing.

Come on folks, this contribution has come from somebody who has already contibuted greatly....Where is the love?


SCWA, 27 Mar 2007 - WA, Southern region

Donations:

We have received another generous donation of $100 from Steve Holland. Cheers Mate!, we will definately put this to good use.


SCWA, 29 Mar 2007 - WA, Southern region

Donations:

Yet another generous donation of $100 has been made by Owen Davis. Thanks heaps Owen, it's great to see the support role in.

Cheers

SCWA Crew


Rod, 13 Jun 2008 - Europe

Just before a recent trip to SW Oz, I received word from George that the donations had stopped and the kitty was bare (which explained the relative lack of rebolting work done in the past 12 months).

I've sent another $1,000 on behalf of Swiss based climbers but I think the local climbing community should be made aware that this small amount won't go very far, hence the post.

Your local rebolters need a continual flow of moderate amounts of cash so seek them out and give them some cold hard cash once a year. To keep them a little bit honest, post the amount you've donated and to whom such that its in the public domain.


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