Message Board - Bolting
| « up «Posted: 10 Jun 2007 | |
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Richard  - WA, Perth region | Sylvia & L.O.O.Druggie CompleteSylvia and Land of the Orange Druggie are ready to go. Checked glue today. Thanks for all the help Neil. Enjoy! P.S Bond corp still not finished! |
Replies
Owen, 13 Jun 2007 - WA, Perth region
Nice work fellas
Neil, 13 Jun 2007 - WA, Perth region
nice work yourself owen.
your repeated slumps on the first bolt must have loosened it nicely - as it popped straight out !!!!
FYI punters - the first bolt was not even a carrot !!!
it was just a normal threaded bolt inside a hole, no glue, no bashing or anything.
since this protects the crux, with no other runners, some 5m+ from the ground..... things could have been ugly.
George, 13 Jun 2007 - WA, Northern region
Great work Richard and Neil, keep up the good work.
:)
Owen, 14 Jun 2007 - WA, Perth region
It held didn't it? So what are you guys whinging about :P
Ross, 17 Jul 2007 - WA, Perth region
Can anyone climb over the first bolt on the Druggie (except for Matt)? I'm keen on hearing some beta. I can go up 1m left or right of bolt but directly over it seems hopeless (at gr 22 anyway)...The rest is v nice by the way.
Richard, 17 Jul 2007 - WA, Perth region
I belayed owen who climbed straight over. Kate also did the move but slightly differently. Certainly very hard 22 move!
Matt Rosser, 18 Jul 2007 - WA, Perth region
Hi Ross
It is very sad that I can recite these moves some 17 years on. In my minds eye I can see my poor wife, who laments my substandard domestic memory, shaking her head in justifiable disappointment.
The key to the crux is moving your right foot high enough to get the height to hit the top.
Clip the 1st bolt. Move up using the good under-cling plate to stand slightly lower than the first bolt. Left foot will be to the left of the bolt on a very good stance. Right foot will be level with the lip of the small roof on a small edge. Hold the under-cling plate and move right foot directly under the under-cling to give you the extra height. Hold the under-cling with left and gently reach to poor crimp to right of 2nd bolt. Steady your self on crimp (don’t try and pull) and move left hand to gain top. Clip 2nd bolt.
On the grade. I originally graded the line a 23. But Ron said that it was a 22 and so it was.
Owen, 18 Jul 2007 - WA, Perth region
Even sadder that I can't remember anything and I did the moves a few weeks ago. All I can remember is that the key to moving above the first bolt for me was a poxy undercling for the right hand on the left end of an overlap on the right. Beta Richard should be able to help you with the rest
Ross, 1 Aug 2007 - WA, Perth region
Thanks guys, will try.